Halston’s successes and ultimate downfall have provided a cautious inspiration. Maintaining a consistent direction over such a diverse array of lines proved unfeasible for Halston, and something was lost along the way: the cachet and the allure that made a Halston a Halston. Perhaps this gave additional time for these brands to arrive at a more singular vision. Acquisitions of these companies by larger conglomerates occurred much later than Halston’s, often decades into the brand’s existence. These designers’ corporate and creative decisions were arguably more tightly controlled than Halston’s devil-may-care diffusion. All pulled it off without suffering the extraordinary professional cost that Halston endured. Others follow Halston’s leadĭespite its eventual failure, Halston’s pairing with JCPenney was truly ahead of its time.Ĭiting the importance of creating practical, easy-care leisurewear for working women and young mothers, Halston tried to offer a fashionable wardrobe at reasonable prices that nearly everyone could afford.Ĭontemporaries such as Anne Klein, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Kenzo Takada would immediately try out similar diffusion lines. He lived out of the public eye until his death in 1990. In 1988, Halston was diagnosed with AIDS. Halston was relegated to the sidelines, and his corporate deals effectively cost him the right to his own name. Meanwhile, Halston’s growing reputation of excessive spending and erratic behavior increasingly left his brand to the decisions of businessmen and creative control to other parties. Bergdorf Goodman eventually dropped his line altogether. Wary high-end retailers, including his early employer, Bergdorf Goodman, were fearful that the prestige of the Halston name was sullied by its presence on the racks of a mass-market merchandiser. The JCPenney’s deal ultimately proved to be damaging for Halston. By the mid-1980s, industry insiders were suggesting that the garments were not selling as well as expected. While Halston contended it was immensely successful, claiming it generated $1 billion in sales, JCPenney’s executives were less enthusiastic. While high-end fashion designer Pierre Cardin pioneered this form of licensing in Europe, the project of pairing a high-fashion designer with a mass merchandiser best known for selling Levi’s, hardware and household goods was unusual in the United States. The Halston III line for JCPenney was the first by a high-end American fashion designer licensing his name. And with Halston International, the designer created “component” knit pieces – not outfits, but singular garments, turtlenecks, sweater sets, shirts and coats – that consumers could mix and match to their delight. Meanwhile, the Halston Originals boutique sold dresses to department stores across the country, with prices ranging from US$150 to over $1,000. Located on New York City’s Madison Avenue, it catered to an exclusive list of private clientele that included film and television stars like Lauren Bacall, Greta Garbo, Liza Minelli and Elizabeth Taylor. His high-end line was Halston Ltd., a made-to-order, ready-to-wear business. The world-famous disco club became both a showroom for Halston’s designs and a stage for the man himself, and Halston was often accompanied by an entourage of beautiful women known as “ the Halstonettes.” Halston the businessmanĪs his stature grew, Halston always looked for ways to expand his fashion empire.Įarly in his career, he experimented with what’s known as “ brand diffusion” – which is companies’ use of the same brand name on items at varying price points. During his heyday, he was at “the top of the fashion show-biz heap,” as Women’s Wear Daily publisher John Fairchild once wrote.Īt the legendary Studio 54, he mingled with Bianca Jagger and Andy Warhol. In fact, the image of fashion design as a glamorous and exciting profession owes much to Halston. Yet the designer’s social life was the opposite of understated. A silk Halston evening dress, designed in the mid-1970s.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |